SOME historians are already concerned about "Che," the movie Steven Soderbergh is directing with Benicio Del Toro starring as the Communist revolutionary. Soderbergh seems intent on portraying Ernesto "Che" Guevara as a hero, who battled alongside Fidel Castro to free Cuba from a corrupt imperialist government, and then was martyred by the CIA. Soderbergh will no doubt gloss over the six months after Castro seized power in 1959, when Che was in charge of La Cabana fortress, overseeing the trial and execution of 600 political prisoners. "To witness such butchery is a trauma that will accompany me to my grave," recalled José Vilasuso, a lawyer who worked under Che. "The walls of that medieval castle received the echoes of the rhythmic footstep of the squad, the clicking of the rifles . . . the sorry howling of the dying . . . the macabre silence . . . " Soderbergh had no comment.
Signs of chic already are creeping into a place once regarded for its laid-back funkiness. The 2-year-old Bravo Beach Hotel, whose minimalist lines were reshaped from a former hacienda house turned motel, sports Frette sheets and iPod docking stations in its nine guest rooms and villa. At Thanksgiving, actor Benicio Del Toro dined on the VIP terrace (the first VIP anything on the island), and its wine-tasting room and sushi bar host a New York City clientele that pops over for long weekends. New restaurants serving nouvelle Caribbean cuisine have joined spots dishing out typical rice-and-beans criolla fare.